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Post by GregMiller on Apr 4, 2011 9:46:38 GMT -5
More Throttle Parts... Gland Nut and Nut Gland Nut, One Done, Bottom by gregrycm, on Flickr The 129 hole will be drilled in the face of the Gland Nut when the throttle neck is turned and threaded. This should help ensure that all are concentric. Greg
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Post by GregMiller on Jul 10, 2011 21:50:25 GMT -5
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Post by phutcheson on Jul 11, 2011 2:34:58 GMT -5
Greg,
Good looking parts
I'm trying to make the Reverse Shaft on page 114 ... having a little problem.
I made a bending fixture but when I mount the Reverse Shaft bearings they bind. Can't seem to get it straight.
Another issue is the drilling the 1/16" holes to align 112 degrees. How elaborate did you get?
Do you having any pictures or suggestions for doing these things?
Thanks,
Pat H.
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Post by GregMiller on Jul 11, 2011 8:55:21 GMT -5
Hi Pat, Thanks. I have not made parts for the A3a since April, so it was good to get some metal cut over the weekend. I jump around the book quite a bit, so I have not tackled that shaft yet... Sorry. But I have looked at it and thought that it might be finicky. I just did the arm shaft for the cylinder cocks and noticed that the SS rod that I purchased was not exactly round. Have you tried to insert a straight length of shaft through the reverse shaft bearings to see if they are lined up and true? On the Arm Shaft bearings, I might have to cheat a bit, and ream those holes to 0.1275 to get the shaft to turn freely. Sssshhhh, let's keep that quiet. GregE completed the Reverse Shaft fairly recently, maybe he can chime in with some insight. Greg
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Post by pkastagehand on Jul 11, 2011 9:05:53 GMT -5
I have done the reverse shaft. I printed out a drawing in full scale to compare to by laying the shaft on the drawing. Then it was just a lot of bending and tweaking to get it to match the drawing. It might be a little tight in the brackets but it works. Tight is probably better then sloppy loose. As for drilling the 1/16 holes, I think I marked the arms on the surface plate, center punched them. I used screws to hold shaft to arm in correct location as the book describes. It didn't seem to me that I had to be perfectly centered as long as it went through the shaft as close to center as I could by eyeballing it in the drill press vise. Paul
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Post by phutcheson on Jul 11, 2011 11:44:46 GMT -5
Thanks Greg and Paul for the quick response.
Greg ... the bearing goes on very smooth it's just when the bearing is tighten down on the Yoke then it starts binds. If I slowly rotate the shaft I can see one bearing move. Looking carefully I think I have a small double bend at that location.
I'm also thinking about enlarging the bearing hole a bit say .001 or so, but I going to try another bend first.
Paul ... yep. Have a drawing to scale and did a lot of tweaking, but the metal just won't move very much ... then of course it moves somewhere else! I really meant how to get the 112 degrees accurately. I think I will just stop and make a gauge.
Well back to the project ... would like to that done today or at least tomorrow. Keep up the good work guys ... looking forward to see more updates.
Later,
Pat H.
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Post by pkastagehand on Jul 11, 2011 13:32:19 GMT -5
I really meant how to get the 112 degrees accurately. I think I will just stop and make a gauge.
Later,
Pat H.
Ah, I see. IIRC I used CAD to draft up a side view (end on) of the shaft. Using accurate diameter and angle then dimensioned the distance from a square vertical surface where the "loop" touched out to the same side at the straight sections of the shaft. Then used gage blocks/shims to space it out that distance. You also have to take into account the slope of the reverse arms or they'll be a bit off. Paul
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Post by GregMiller on Jul 24, 2011 16:34:19 GMT -5
A little bit of progress to show on the Tee. Tee on Hearth by gregrycm, on Flickr Looks like next weekend I will be working with the lathe and the 4-Jaw chuck. Greg
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Post by GregMiller on Aug 21, 2011 20:44:13 GMT -5
Third time is a charm... Had a couple of issues with the Tee fabrication. On the first, I threaded the exhaust through the whole part and drilled 5/16 too deep. On the second, the upright soldered at a slant and the 'H' drill grabbed and drilled very crooked. But the third turned out fine, not perfect, but fine. Tee Done by gregrycm, on Flickr
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Post by kvom on Aug 22, 2011 7:17:53 GMT -5
nice!
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Post by pkastagehand on Aug 31, 2011 15:30:22 GMT -5
Made mine one piece out of some scrap C.I. I had on hand. I've avoided a fair amount of silver soldering that way. :-D
Paul
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Post by GregMiller on Oct 29, 2011 22:06:01 GMT -5
Lubricator Housing soldered and excess material milled and filed away. It holds water! Click the Flickr link for more pictures of the fabrication. Lubricator Frame Mount by gregrycm, on Flickr
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Post by GregMiller on Jul 15, 2012 15:45:17 GMT -5
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Post by GregMiller on Jul 23, 2012 11:04:16 GMT -5
Bad Day at the soldering hearth. Part got way too hot and "Reference Geometry" has taken on an oval shape... not good. I did the first heating as instructed in the book with my medium sized torch. I felt that the parts were not getting hot enough, so I stepped up to the larger torch tip. At the end, there may have been some solder visible at the joint near the threaded boss. So I pickled and cleaned the part up, applied flux and dropped more lengths of SS in the hole, and applied heat. Flux went through its 2 phases, but I never saw solder flow from the joint. Pickled and brass wire brushed again. Decided to put lengths of solder around the outside perimeter of the cylinder and apply hear from the bottom. This seems to have worked, although the solder did not flow all the way through the block. Pickled and brass wire brushed again. Turned the part over, and soldered again from the other side. As before, solder flowed, but unsure if it flowed along the cylinder through the part. In Hindsight, I think that the fit between the cylinder and the block was too tight. it was a nice slip fit before the prick punch marks, and I fear that there was not enough clearance to allow solder to flow or even flux to stay on the cylinder. Perhaps the intent was to apply solder around the cylinder, as typical, but also drop solder in the hole. I noticed in the New Shay book, that solder is applied around the perimeter of the cylinder. I am open to suggestions, as I need to get much better at this. Soldering Failure - Feedwater Pump - End by gregrycm, on Flickr
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Post by kvom on Jul 23, 2012 18:16:23 GMT -5
I have been using green loctite to fasten round shafts in holes, including the wheels to the axles on my 1.5 scale A3. This can seal a gap up to .015" and may well work well here.
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