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Post by bobbydemo on Jul 23, 2010 6:19:51 GMT -5
Building A-3 3/4 Switcher, is there anyone out there that i can get a pattern for the verge board.Thank You Bob D
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Post by pkastagehand on Jul 23, 2010 10:53:16 GMT -5
What scale? Right out of the book or are you scaling up? I have a CAD drawing I can send a copy of in PDF format. Not sure how well they keep to scale. Or if you use CAD I can send a DWG or DXF file in which scaling should stay accurate. If DWG tell me what AutoCad version/year. Many/most CADs will import DXF.
If you private message me your email address I can send it as an attachment.
I used spray adhesive to glue a paper pattern of this part right to the brass, then cut to the lines, then bend.
Paul
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Post by GregMiller on Dec 4, 2010 17:50:57 GMT -5
I am back to work on my A3a. Here are the Steam and Exhaust Deflectors for the Tee. I deviated from the plans slightly. The base of both deflectors is the same diameter (0.719) and the holes/counter sinks have been moved in slightly to allow more material on the diameter. All done for cosmetics I think it is amazing how smooth the finish looks in the shop, then when macro photos are posted, all the tooling marks appear... like no finish work was done. Maybe I need to smudge the camera lens with an oily finger print. SteamDeflectorExhaustDeflector1 by gregrycm, on Flickr SteamDeflectorExhaustDeflector2 by gregrycm, on Flickr Thanks for BBcode tip GregE. Greg
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Post by grege on Dec 5, 2010 8:38:42 GMT -5
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Post by Harlock on Dec 6, 2010 18:33:48 GMT -5
One thing that professional model builder Jack Bodenmann likes to do is lightly media blast all of his parts that are intended to look like castings, and then they really do look like castings. It takes off any surface features that are merely cosmetic and gives it a nice even tone, and provides the correct roughness for paint. Attached is a photo of a 1 1/2" scale caboose stove that he recently completed. Much of it will be sent off for investment castings to make duplicates, but this original is all machined. The vertical ribs are silver soldered on. A lot of delicate work. Attachments:
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Post by phutcheson on Dec 7, 2010 2:02:12 GMT -5
Greg Miller,
Great to have you back ... it has been a while.
Nice looking parts.
Harlock,
Now that is delicate work ... hope to be able to make something like that someday!!
Pat H.
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Post by GregMiller on Dec 12, 2010 21:39:32 GMT -5
Made progress on the Cylinder Cock elbow and lever this weekend. I intend to make all of the handles in one sitting, then SS in place. Still need to slot the elbow, but that will wait for another day. Cylinder Cock - Lever & Elbow Complete by gregrycm, on Flickr Greg
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Post by pkastagehand on Dec 15, 2010 15:30:29 GMT -5
Real purdy...bead/sand blasted finish or "brushed" look by sanding or what?
I've made a little wooden sand blasting box and bought a cheap hopper fed blaster from Horror Freight and it works pretty well for cleaning up a lot small parts.
Paul
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Post by GregMiller on Dec 15, 2010 20:30:13 GMT -5
Hi Paul, Have not heard from you in a while. Seasonal hobby too?
I have a 3/8" thick piece of glass that is about the size of a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper. I use 400 grit paper and spray it with WD-40 to wet it, then sand the part on paper in a circular pattern.
What is the part number of the HF blaster that you have, and what are you using for an abrasive?
Hope to see some of your progress soon.
Greg
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Post by GregMiller on Jan 2, 2011 9:54:44 GMT -5
Completed the Reach Rod. Reach Rod End Complete by gregrycm, on Flickr Here is an end shot of the fixture that I used to hold the Reach Rod while the slot was milled on each end. Picture does not show it, but there is another clamp at the other end of the rod as well. One end was machined and then the fixture was spun around to mill the other end. This way, the slots should be aligned. Reach Rod Jig Assy by gregrycm, on Flickr
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Post by pkastagehand on Jan 3, 2011 11:19:06 GMT -5
Hi Greg, More that life just gets in the way sometimes than seasonal. However see my post today (A3 Progress Report)! Blaster is HF Item #95793. 21 oz. gravity feed gun. I built a pywood box with plexi window, bought some gloves and attached with plywood rings, etc. Put a light in it and hooked it to the dust collector to pull the dust out. Works OK for small parts. For abrasive I just bought a bag of silica sand from Lowes. Cheap but not maybe the finest finish. I was at Menards the other day and I think that is where I saw a bag of actual abrasive sand for blasting. It seemed much finer than the silica sand. My mother lives near Marseilles IL and a brother lives in Champaign. I should try to arrange a visit to your shop sometime when when I'm in the state visiting. Will you run at ILS? That is about the closest 3-1/2" gage track that I know of. Paul Hi Paul, Have not heard from you in a while. Seasonal hobby too? I have a 3/8" thick piece of glass that is about the size of a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper. I use 400 grit paper and spray it with WD-40 to wet it, then sand the part on paper in a circular pattern. What is the part number of the HF blaster that you have, and what are you using for an abrasive? Hope to see some of your progress soon. Greg
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Post by GregMiller on Jan 3, 2011 22:13:35 GMT -5
More progress to report on the Cylinder Cock Linkage. I now am up to 6 moving parts! Cylinder Cock Elbow by gregrycm, on Flickr Cylinder Cock Lever by gregrycm, on Flickr Paul, Not sure where I'll run yet. There is a small loop of 3.5 gauge at a private track in Decatur. Goal will be to take a road trip out to Waushakum and run. But I am a couple of years away from making those plans. The CILS (Central Illinois Live Steamers) have a steam meet in Decatur around Fathers Day. Might be a good time to visit. Greg
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Post by pkastagehand on Jan 6, 2011 11:49:42 GMT -5
Greg: Hard to say where I'll be around Father's Day this year. Not a usual travel time for me but who knows...
I was thinking of making some of those automatic condensate valves for the cylinders rather than make all that linkage for drain cocks. A couple designs are floating around online.
Paul
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Post by GregMiller on Jan 23, 2011 16:38:28 GMT -5
Reverser Stand is complete. I shortened the width of the stand base slightly so that it did not partially cover one of the holes for the air reservoir. Silver Soldering went pretty well, but it looks like I could have used less. I'll SS the handle in place later. I fabricated all of the Reverser Stand from SS303. Reverser Stand 1 by gregrycm, on Flickr
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Post by GregMiller on Feb 1, 2011 9:46:44 GMT -5
Latch Lever on Reverser Stand. Latch Lever Assy 4 by gregrycm, on Flickr This is likely another practice piece. The handle is narrower than it should be and is offset. Will have to measure more carefully on the next one! Greg
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