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Post by bill4227 on Jun 9, 2010 18:57:11 GMT -5
I am also thinking about starting the A3 and was looking at some sort of BOM. As stated earlier Greg had started a BOM and was wondering if he would be willing to share what he has so far? Bill
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Post by grege on Jun 11, 2010 5:22:35 GMT -5
There are a couple reasons I've been reluctant to pass along the list I made. First is that I'm building a saddle tank version- so I don't have any of the tender materials listed. Second is that there were errors, but I haven't updated the spreadsheet so I don't remember them all- I've been using a paper printout to markup changes.
So- I can pass it along, but you'd really be best off checking through it all yourself item by item... I'll take a look at my paper copy and make some updates to it.
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Post by bill4227 on Jun 11, 2010 18:49:24 GMT -5
Thanks Greg. I wish you well on your changes and hope to see some photos of your modifications.
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Post by ramkitty on Jun 22, 2010 12:25:36 GMT -5
I had just received my first largish order. Stock for the tender wheels and bogies some brass screws and some tooling (small taps and some reamers) time to get to work... now to cut the wheel blanks... should be fun without a metal cutting bandsaw. The other saws we have tend to wander so I guess I will be doing it with a hacksaw
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Post by phutcheson on Jun 22, 2010 12:35:25 GMT -5
Bill,
Now the fun starts!
You might consider the HF H Bandsaw, they have them on sale all the time ... a great time saver even when they don't cut straight. I got mine years ago and still cuts good.
Keep us posted
Pat H
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Post by ramkitty on Jun 22, 2010 19:08:05 GMT -5
I cut one blank by hand... not too bad 12L14 is very workable.. I like it I did the first chucking and was running into problems with the outside ring. I was getting really crappy results and it turned out that the relief angle on the bottom of the tool I was using was not large enough to clear once I got a little bit of depth. I guess that is why you buy extra stock eh I will have a spare with an ugly inside. The finish is really bright and I am pleased with it otherwise.
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Post by ramkitty on Jul 1, 2010 0:31:39 GMT -5
whew.. Done cutting 10 blanks (by hand with a hacksaw) from a round and finished the 1st turning. 1 was no good because the damage on the outside taper due to the tool being too thick. Another I turned the inner flange too small and the rest are in great shape. I plan on starting the second turning on friday and hope to be ready to start the mandrel for the finishing.
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Post by phutcheson on Jul 1, 2010 11:13:55 GMT -5
Bill,
Yes, 12L14 is really nice to work with, I also used it for my drivers.
Glad to hear that you are moving forward.
Any thoughts about posting pictures?
Later,
Pat H.
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Post by kenrinc on Jul 1, 2010 18:55:50 GMT -5
12L is wonderful stuff but beware, that shiny finish won't last for long That stuff rusts faster than than any metal I know! I know because I have a shop full of the stuff!! Make sure you have a plan for coating it on the areas that you can, while you work on other parts. Use LPS3 or BoShield on the shiny surfaces. I'd recommend auto epoxy if you can do it otherwise rustoleum or any other hardware variety coating is worth pursuing $.02. Ken
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Post by phutcheson on Jul 1, 2010 19:17:24 GMT -5
You got that right ....
Take a look at what happened to my wheels. Now I keep them and the drivers covered in oil.
See web site below Under Projects, A3 Switcher, Tender wheel ... see how bad they will rust!
Pat H.
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Post by ramkitty on Jul 2, 2010 10:25:57 GMT -5
thanks for the tip, looks like boshield is available at lee valley, I guess I have to go there.. rats ;D I was wondering what paint to use for the inset parts, the book recommends a spray paint but not what kind. I suspect it will be subject to oils, steam, dirt, etc so I would want something fairly sturdy. Also I am not sure what colour to go for either. Kozo used red but I dont know if that was prototypical. edit: I got 5 wheels through the second chucking. 4 more to go then I will be ready for the final step progress something like .001% done
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Post by ramkitty on Oct 18, 2010 10:51:41 GMT -5
Lots more done. Finished the wheels, almost done the axle bushings. Cut and turned to length a lot of stock waiting for machining and prepped the journal boxes for boring. I also bought a personal 7x12 mini lathe. Since I quickly realized how much of a pain the work combo mill/lathe will be. I am also starting to think it will not be up to snuff for the milling either but I will have to play with it some more before deciding that. I may end up buying an x2 or x3 mill. I have not done a lot of machining so I will be learning more than with the lathe. Sorry, you will have to make due with these pictures, taken from a camera with a broken flash. I was able to fix the jammed lens but discharged the flash capacitor into my finger. Giving me a jolt and blowing the bulb They are 'enhanced' using picasa web album hence the grainyness
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Post by phutcheson on Oct 19, 2010 11:53:00 GMT -5
Now ... those wheels look sharp, nice paint job too!
Keep them oiled ...
Looking to see more as progress is made.
Pat H.
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Post by ramkitty on Oct 19, 2010 19:34:22 GMT -5
I finished the bushings they were fun and easy. Now I am on the axles. I had cut and faced to length and was working on the spindle cuts. I am using W1 Drill rod because I thought it may be better for rust resistance but this lathes like crap. I have tried different angles and cutting feed/speeds but have a hell of a time getting a good finish between chattering and other weird stuff I am not experienced enough to describe or correct.
I think I may opt for plain old 12l14 or some stainless. One thing I noticed is that I am getting a bit of a taper when cutting using the compound. I tried to square it up to the crossfeed but I was still getting 1-3 thou taper. I didnt bother to use a dead center because I thought I would get a suitable job without but I may opt to try it with one and move the saddle for much of the cutting, any thoughts?
I also botched one, cut too deep for the wheel to be stable so I think I now have a piece for the rivet press.
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Post by grege on Oct 20, 2010 6:11:58 GMT -5
Good looking wheels!
I had two thoughts on the taper you mentioned and on finishing to a shoulder: Is your compound adjusted and fixed perfectly square to the ways? Mine takes some testing to get it set square as the little '0' mark is fat enough to allow discrepancy. Is part fatter closer to the chuck or farther out? Deflection of the part in an otherwise square setup would make the axle end fatter farther out.
To finish to a shoulder I use a standard turning tool with a slight radius on the tip and the compound to turn close to the desired length- paying most attention to getting the diameter correct. Then I go back with a sharp pointed tool to get the final length and clean up the little fillet in the corner. I only touch the shoulder and corner fillet area though- not the rest of the already complete cut.
Hope that helps. Greg
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