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Post by grege on Jul 24, 2011 20:03:34 GMT -5
I got the pressure gauge installed and decided it was time to try steaming it up. I used an LP torch through the fire door, and got it up to 90 psi and ran it a bit. There were a couple of things to tighten, but the fittings otherwise seem leak free. I may do a hydro-test to working pressure as water drips are easier to see than steam leaks. The whistle worked well, but sounded better down around 40 psi, so I'll have to work on that. It may need a restriction of the steam supply because a light touch on the valve worked well, but a full push made it overblow. I don't have any pump plumbing completed so after a little bit the water was at the bottom of the gauge glass so I let it cool down. Next time I'll try to set the safeties. First steam test by gregeaster, on Flickr
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Post by pkastagehand on Aug 31, 2011 15:27:53 GMT -5
I missed this one earlier. Run the chassis when you had steam up? Or is it not fully plumbed yet?
Nice work on the boiler soldering; at least what I can see of it. :-D
Paul
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Post by kvom on Sept 1, 2011 7:24:49 GMT -5
we want video!
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Post by grege on Sept 1, 2011 20:55:56 GMT -5
I just ran it up on blocks as shown, but that was not much different than on air. I'm looking forward to taking it out to the club track when I get the pumps plumbed to actually run it a bit. Kozo does mention in the book that after building pressure with a torch, I should be able to run a little bit.
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Post by kvom on Feb 25, 2012 13:31:58 GMT -5
FWIW, my friends who are experienced builders say that a "cold" hydro test should be done before a "hot" steam test. These can/should be done before mounting the boiler on the chassis.
Fior steam test you need smokebox/stack to generate a draft and water gauge, but no need for feedwater. When initial water is low dump the fire.
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Post by grege on Feb 29, 2012 8:27:29 GMT -5
Hi Kvom, You are correct. I see my description above was a bit misleading. I did 'cold' hydro-test the boiler when I first completed it about a year ago, and then got it approved by my club inspector last May. What I was referring to in this topic was checking for leaks at the fittings. I found that, for example, the blower valve didn't shut off completely to there was a bit of dribble into the smokebox. I may have a pinhole on one of the manifold nipples, but it was hard to tell. Now I have a hand-pump built, and an almost completed saddle tank, so am looking forward to steaming it up again this spring and getting it all sorted out to run. Greg
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