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Post by kenrinc on Nov 6, 2011 12:17:07 GMT -5
Another 1.5, excellent! More power to you on the copper boiler. I think you'll find that in the end, it will be more expensive but I'm all for people who get it done. ;D Do be forewarned, if you don't already know, there was quite a bit of discussion about that particular boiler design in LS magazine a few years back. You should make yourself "aware" of it's issues. The biggest being that it's designed to run at 70psi; a most odd trait for a 1.5" scale LS boiler.
It looks like were all moving forward. I think Kvom is ahead of us all but I'm getting there. My boiler is steel. It's done and I don't have to worry about it.
Ken-
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Post by kvom on Nov 7, 2011 8:30:28 GMT -5
I'm not sure I'm ahead of anyone, but my goal has been to be in steam within 2 years of starting the project, and I'm halfway timewise.
I have recently contracted with Wayne Godshall to build my boiler. I decided to order from him rather than Jesse Banning because I can avoid the cost of crating/delivery, and he also made me a quite good price. The quote also included the smokebox tube and unfinished door, plus a fire door. In addition, I ordered preset safeties in the dome at 110 and 115 psi.
The boiler is steel with copper flues, and will be hydroed to 300 psi. It will have provisions for blowdown valves on both sides as well as cleanout plugs. The throttle rod will be through a dry pipe rather than over the boiler.
I will be picking mine up at Cabin Fever in January.
I have "almost" decided to use 2 injectors and skip the axle pump. The right side injector would be located in place of the fake air tank that is used as a battery box in the 3/4 scale version. If I go with the injector on the left as well, I do want to try to figure out plumbing that would allow the axle pump to be added later. We'll see.
After listening to other builders at my club, I will also be purchasing rather than buying the lubricator and sight glass, both from American Model Engineering. A fellow club member got his sight glass from them and it looks really nice.
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Post by kenrinc on Nov 10, 2011 14:08:40 GMT -5
I don't know, things look good from the pics I've seen at Chaski. :-)
I'm also on the fence with the axle pump. So many have told me to just forget it but some have pumps and say it's so nice to just have the bypass "cracked" while running. Some of them end up only using the injector sparingly here and there. I'd like to figure it out now though so I can get it in and halfway plumbed. Another option: Jesse sells an already completed pump. You can always just "write a check" and just make it go away. LOL! .
Good call on the boiler. Jesse is a member of my club (GGLS) so I didn't have to pay for crating or shipping and the cost, quite frankly was a "no brainer". Same setup: dry pipe throttle and copper flues.
I like the thought of running at 110/115. Boiler was built assuming 120psi but I think the engine will be too "slippery" with that much pressure. I have no basis for that opinion, just an assumption considering overall weight.
Ken
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Post by toliver66 on Feb 20, 2012 13:27:50 GMT -5
Kvom has been my inspiration. So much so in fact that I am currently enrolled in the MECHANICAL DESIGN FABRICATION - MECH - AAS program down at the local community college. I'm hopping to get some free time on their HASS CNC machine to bang out some parts. Right now I'm stuck on the drivers. I really can't go any further without the drivers machined, quartered, and installed in the frame. I've considered my options - pre made castings, CNC from solid stock, or cast my own. And I keep coming back to casting my own. Problem is metal casting is a whole other hobby unto itself. So far I’ve got the furnace 1/2 built and a waste oil burner 2/3 finished. I don’t have any pictures of the furnace build but I could take some if you guys are interested. I've been looking at the same lubricator and sight glass from American Model Engineering also. I started this project with the idea that I was going to be the die hard DYI machinist. But the farther along I get the less I want to reinvent the wheel so to speak. With all the pre-made bolt on parts available it sure would save allot of time and material cost. I plan on using the axle pump and an injector for the best of both worlds with the hand pump as a backup.
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Post by toliver66 on Feb 20, 2012 13:32:49 GMT -5
Thanks for the info kenrinc. I was unaware of running at 70 psi being an issue. I don't have LS magazine would you mind summarizing it for me?
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Post by kvom on Feb 20, 2012 18:22:17 GMT -5
While I'm still getting the lubricator from AME, I decided to order the sight glass from Locoparts after seeing theirs at Cabin Fever. I also bought boiler and lubricator check valves from them. Rather than Kozo's lubricating through the tee, I'm going to follow prototype and run the steam oil in through the steam chest covers.
I also got two Economy injectors from Superscale, since they recently became available. Everyone I know says these are the best you can get.
I can recommend the driver castings from Friends if you change your mind on casting them yourself. Note that casting iron is a lot harder to do than casting aluminum or brass.
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Post by kenrinc on Mar 7, 2012 14:36:16 GMT -5
Toliver66: The article was written by Marty Knox. He had issues with how Kozo stayed the crown sheet as well as the material thickness used. For the most part, Marty acknowledged that his views were just things that he would have done differently and not engineering problems but his most important point was that since these locomotives tend to get passed around after people either A: die B: move onto another project, another LS who ends up with the engine will in all likely hood try and run the engine at 100 to 125psi. This would not be a good idea with that design. I'd suggest you try to get involved in a club where you can talk to others. I know of no 1.5" scale LS boilers running at less than 100psi.
My lubricator came from Locoparts. The small boiler water gauge I'm getting from them too. Got one Superscale inejector and will have a handpump also. Since I'm trying to make a meet in June, I may likely buy another for safety.
Here's my advice, I've been doing foundry work for about 8 years now. Mind you, enthusiasm is a good thing to have ;D but sometimes you can get too far in before you know it 25 years are gone. Have the foundry, the burners, the boxes, everything. I too at one time was adamant about casting my own parts in iron. But going from Aluminum to Iron is a huge undertaking. I'll tell you, that you more than likely will never finish your project if you choose to go that route BUT, "to each his own". As you said, it's a hobby all by itself. I tell people, if you want to build Kozo's engine, then build it like he says, otherwise what ends up happening as you become more proficient with machine tools, is you go "oh, I can redesign that and make it better". In some cases you can simplify, but in my case, I redesigned and that takes TIME. I finally caved and said, Nope. I'm doing it like he says unless there is a more direct way (like buying it) or simplifying. Just a suggestion from someone who has been there.
Cheers
Ken-
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