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Post by IronMan on May 23, 2004 10:58:54 GMT -5
Hello Bluechip,
I am not quite sure on how to go about fixing the bearings that I have. I want to bring the trucks to the track and see how movement affect the whole thing. I have no experience in these things so it's a trial and error thing at best. I figure that I can always redo what ever is not functioning properly. This is my first project hopefully not the last I have no illusions as to it being museum quality, I just think of it like the book says, The first project for the beginner. You got to start somewhere and learn from your mistakes, is how I am looking at it. I only have a lathe and a drill press, besides all my woodworking machines. I am enjoying this immensenly my enthousiasm might wane once in a while, but with the help of this forum to help out it gets back on track.
Cheers, IronMan ;D
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Post by Bluechips on May 23, 2004 15:07:32 GMT -5
The aluminum arch bar trucks mentioned in a previous post are available here. I hope this does not violate the rules? I have no financial interest in this site. www.cannonballltd.com/trucks_cat.htmlMarcus
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Post by Bluechips on May 23, 2004 15:16:52 GMT -5
Ironman
It will probably work without allowing the bearing to pivot. However you can still machine in the 3 degree taper easily. Just remember to keep that .02-.04 inch flat spot for the center of the bearing. Above all! Do not get discouraged! Keep up the good work! You have been a great encouragement to me!
Marcus
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Post by IronMan on May 24, 2004 18:53:09 GMT -5
Hello Marcus, I will try to describe what I have done so far. I machined the hole in the journal a little oversize like suggested on the second post by DavidT and made it tight on the shaft. There is a gap between the journal and the face of the wheel, I made sure by measuring and remeasuring and drawing it over before I locktited the wheels. I imagine that gap is for lateral mouvement of the axle.There is a little less than 3/16 total on each axle .One thing that I did not think out is that the bearing does not stay seated moves sometimes half way out of it seat. Now I was going on Kozo's design of course I have notting else , but I am wondering wether the gap on his design is because of the Phospor Bronze bushings he is using? or should I have made the shaft shorter in order to hold the bearing in its seat? I could always rememdy that situation with brass washers if I need to wedge the bearing in place but that does not seem like it the thing to do. If i give the bearings a drop of locktite to hold them in place then we have the other problem. I was hoping to solve this problem by bringing the trucks to the track and seing how movement affect the whole thing. There seemed to be no concensus on this problem so I had decided someone is going to have to take the plunge and see how it comes out, I was at that point in the project so I guess it ended it being me . If you have any thoughts on the subject I would really appreciate your input, I am sure the answer to this concerns quite a few people. It would put this baby to rest so we could move to some bigger and better things ( headackes ) all depends on the severity of it I suppose ;D Cheers, IronMan
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Post by John Meacham on Jul 23, 2004 17:32:00 GMT -5
I obtained aluminum castings along with iron wheel castings from Tanski Model Engineering locatd at 8927 NotreDame Dr. in Eden, New York 14057-9534. As far as I know he does not have a web site, but does run an ad in Live Steam for the Raritan engine which includes the plans for a riding car with his trucks. kind of an arch-bar, but ball bearing axles and a roller bearing to allow for swiveling. No springing is shown but the side frames are allowed to twist to take care of un-even track.
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