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Post by Bill Holland on Apr 4, 2004 12:43:55 GMT -5
Kozo's design uses barrel shaped bushings to allow the truck twist in its equalizing motion. For those of you going to anti friction bearings, you realise you will be forcing some twisting motion to those bearings? How are you going about this? Im thinking about making all new trucks that are ball bearing friendly, but not sure what to do. First thing I have to do right now anyhow is make that center test indicator.
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Post by DavidT on Apr 4, 2004 13:55:27 GMT -5
Plans I have seen make the bearing tight on the axle and the outer hole is loose enough to let the bearing move. Someday when my 1st pair of trucks is rolling I will report.
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Post by phty on Apr 5, 2004 14:59:08 GMT -5
Hello Bill, You do know that if you don't have the time or inclination, you can by a center test indicator from OMW Metalcraft (http://www.omwmetal.com/ for about $35. What I don't get is how to set it up on the tool post and position it properly. I would think that if the tool post is not set up directly in line with the center of the chuck and the tail stock, it wouldn't test correctly. So, given that, I would think that one would first take out the chuck, put in centerpoints in the chuck spndle and tail stock and then position the test finder in the tool post so that the points all line up. But this seems lengthy and there should be an easier way. What do you guys with more experience think? Pat
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Post by Bill Holland on Apr 5, 2004 15:27:43 GMT -5
Phty, I have pondered that myself. THe tool height, or its position on the Y axis will only result in the end of the pointer by the tail stock pointing away from the center. You know, its not critical that it be centered. All your watching the end for is movement. If it is easier to see movement with having the end next to a tail stock center, then fine, but it's not critical.
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Post by dampfwilli on Apr 5, 2004 16:00:33 GMT -5
35 $ for this piece? Its a joke ! Anybody of us maked many more complicated things and can make a Wobbler from scrap for nearly nothing.
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Post by DavidT on Apr 5, 2004 17:47:35 GMT -5
But it is alot better looking than the one I made. I used music wire 1/16 dia for the pointer. Seems to be holding up ok. To understand how it works, try holding a pencil near the middle. Move one end, the other end moves. Hold that end still and the other end does not move, no matter where you move the middle.
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Post by IronMan on Apr 5, 2004 20:30:35 GMT -5
Hey Guys,
I was about to make the Kozo center finder test indicator, ( wobbler ) then I looked through some of my Model Engineers and the were all pretty much the same. A lot of work I figured, I just wanted to work on my project !! Then I found one in ME that takes about 20 minutes. It is only on one page of instructions, I guess I could scan it, it was printed in 1987 I dont know about posting it ,copyrights and all that..... Perhaps I could send it to someone via email if they wanted an copy ? Well Moderator, what is the proper way to go about this without, ruffling anybodys feathers? If somebodys got an idea , I am listening.
Cheers IronMan
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Post by Jamie Harris on Apr 6, 2004 8:00:17 GMT -5
Thats a good question. I would imagine that if you are not reprinting an article for personal gain, it is OK to share it with friends. I would not scan construction articles from Live Steam and post them to my own website without permission, but I think it's OK to scan an article from almost 20 years ago and email it to people or post a picture here. Just my thought, I could be wrong.
Jamie
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Post by IronMan on May 5, 2004 17:10:32 GMT -5
Hey guys,
If there is anyone interested in the center indicator I have posted an article and plans in the files section, under usefull gagets. Mine works great.
Cheers, IronMan
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Post by Jon Harman on May 5, 2004 21:14:56 GMT -5
I could not access the wobbler PDF file at the builders of Kozos Engines files site. I logged in as a member with no luck. Any suggestions? PS. I have all of Kozo's books but am still an armchair modeler. I built the shay's lever operated feed pump and a small alcohol boiler with wobbler engine, but not in the same league as the true live steam engine builders. My hat is off to you for trying. I hope to start someday....
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Post by IronMan on May 5, 2004 21:35:51 GMT -5
Hello Jon.
I have uploaded the file in JPG format, you should be able to access it with no troubles. Do you have pictures of the feed pump and the boiler you have made? if so post them in the photo section. Let us know how you like the wobbler. IronMan ;D
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Alan
Gandy Dancer
Posts: 10
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Post by Alan on May 8, 2004 7:55:38 GMT -5
Hi, I would value the opinion of the group on casting the arch bar trucks out of aluminum. (For the A3 switcher tender.)The pattern is an exact copy from the book, except in 1.5" scale. I there a way to test the truck for weight capacity, and would there be an issue as far as the brakes were concerned? Thank you. Alan
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Post by IronMan on May 8, 2004 10:19:34 GMT -5
Hello Allan,
For one thing the type of aluminum will certainly make a diference in the strenght, ZA 12 would probably be a good grade. Are you going to cast your own parts? If so maybe the thing to do is cast 2, drill a couple of holes, put some shatfs in them and then put them in a press until it breaks to see, what you are up against. There are 2 yahoo groups that are in to hobby casting, I will post the links into the links folder. They should be able to give you some information, and perhaps someones been there before. Also do some reseach on the tensile strenght of Al. and maybe you can gauge from there. Aluminum can be quite strong. There was one person in those groups I dont know if he his still there, is name is Fred , Unfortunatly cant remember is last name, but it was German, He is a Metalurgist for Boeing, verry firendly and helpfull person. He could give you an answer. NOt much but hope this helps. Regards, IronMan
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Post by IronMan on May 20, 2004 19:16:35 GMT -5
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Post by Bluechips on May 23, 2004 2:14:49 GMT -5
There are ball bearings available that compensate for angular misalignment, but are not sealed. You would have to force grease under pressure routinely through the bearings to flush out the dirt, not very practical. In using sealed ball bearings, the journal would have to receive the 3 degree taper to allow movement between the bearing and the journal.
For those of us wishing to complete our first engine, simplicity is best. The ball bearing trucks can be added after the victory is sure! Completing a locomotive is no small undertaking. Obtaining a polished "superfinish" between the bearing and the axle and the routine use of oil will go a long way toward reducing friction. I'm not sure which scale to build the switcher in first, but either one will have plain bearings.
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