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Post by FredR on Mar 27, 2004 15:37:37 GMT -5
I found a place that can do the frames. I sent him a rough CAD file that does not include bolt holes of any kind, just the big knock sections. Looks like it is going to be $175+/- +shipping. But prices look like they are going up the first of April due to steel price increase. Anyway, if enough ask, we might be able to get quantity pricing.
Fred
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Post by FredR on Mar 27, 2004 15:38:36 GMT -5
BTW, that is 1-1/2" scale
Fred
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Post by Jamie Harris on Apr 1, 2004 14:02:30 GMT -5
Hey Fred, if you can truly produce accurate frames for the 1-1/2" scale A3 for that price I would be interested. Please let me know the details when you get them.
Thanks, Jamie
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Post by Bill Holland on Apr 1, 2004 22:42:00 GMT -5
Just a question, now I've been told that torch cut or plasma cut frames leave a hardened area that needs to be roughed out with a roughing end mill then finished, like the pockets for the axle horns. Have any of you called up any Water Jet cutters to get a frame cut? May come out to the same price with a LOT less work to do afterwords. IF any of you follow Jon-Eric's progress over in Finland on his stuff, he saved TONS of time getting his 0-6-0 parts water cut.
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Post by EASTERN MACHINE on Apr 2, 2004 8:00:38 GMT -5
Just as a rule of thumb, unless you have a live steam friendly water jet source it is usually much, MUCH more expensive than Plasma or Laser cutting parts. I am not 100% sure about plasma, but I know a laser cut part most likely will not need any special treatment to machine. Currently I laser tap holes in parts for sizes down to about 1/4" and use a standard tap to thread the holes, so it can't be to hard. (if I don't break the tap no one will!)
I would be willing to try milling a set of frames that was cut with a newer high definition plasma cutter, it may work fine, as for flame cut...YUCK... Thats just not a fun time.
For what its worth...
Don
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FredR
Gandy Dancer
Posts: 2
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Post by FredR on Apr 2, 2004 17:24:28 GMT -5
Just a question, now I've been told that torch cut or plasma cut frames leave a hardened area that needs to be roughed out with a roughing end mill then finished, like the pockets for the axle horns. Have any of you called up any Water Jet cutters to get a frame cut? May come out to the same price with a LOT less work to do afterwords. IF any of you follow Jon-Eric's progress over in Finland on his stuff, he saved TONS of time getting his 0-6-0 parts water cut. The water cut is the way I would like to go, but I think that they are probably twice as much. I don't know of anyone that does it. Anyone else? As for the hardening, I don't know. I just thought that this would be easier than trying to saw out the frame like My Kozo does. To me, that's too much work.... specially since I am a lazy person at heart ;D Fred
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Post by Bill Holland on Apr 2, 2004 23:50:06 GMT -5
I looked in Yellow pages, and google, and found a water jet cutter in CT. You may try that as well.
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Post by Eastern Machine on Apr 5, 2004 10:14:10 GMT -5
To All - I have reviewed the drawings with my supplier for laser cut frames (NOT PLASMA) We are looking at $100 per pair, again no small holes. 0.010" will be left to machine the journals to fit and thickness of material will be .490 rather than .500 due to stock plate sizes. Standard laser tolerance is +/-0.007, not quite as good as H20 Jet, but the laser will not leave you with the taper that H20 will leave. You will also not need any special mills to finish machining these. Let me know what you think!
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FredR
Gandy Dancer
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Post by FredR on Apr 7, 2004 12:04:29 GMT -5
Sounds good to me. Do you get a volume discount? I am sure others would be interested. Fred To All - I have reviewed the drawings with my supplier for laser cut frames (NOT PLASMA) We are looking at $100 per pair, again no small holes. 0.010" will be left to machine the journals to fit and thickness of material will be .490 rather than .500 due to stock plate sizes. Standard laser tolerance is +/-0.007, not quite as good as H20 Jet, but the laser will not leave you with the taper that H20 will leave. You will also not need any special mills to finish machining these. Let me know what you think!
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Post by Jamie Harris on Apr 7, 2004 13:28:31 GMT -5
Here is a picture of the frames Don is talking about. Jamie
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Post by Bill Holland on Apr 7, 2004 15:22:01 GMT -5
I'd eventually be interested in 1" scale frame, I'd have to do a dxf though of it.
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Post by Eastern Machine on Apr 8, 2004 7:18:04 GMT -5
At $100 per set, I have already taken some liberties in assuming some kind of volume. Also I will be attaching the order to and order for my "REAL" job. I don't expect much more of a price break at this point.
For those 1" frames, get me the dxf and I will let you know right away. Price will prob be in the same area, a few bucks less.
Anyone interested in frames, the lead time right now is about the first week in June.
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Post by Bill Holland on Apr 8, 2004 17:34:31 GMT -5
now that I think about it, my frame will need to be thinner than your material, and other stuff, plus I just dont have that money at the moment. I still need to do a lot of engineering before I get to that point. Thanks anyway though.
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Post by ibrich on Apr 8, 2004 22:30:01 GMT -5
I was wondering what stock would be used for A3 frames in one inch scale. Sorry, I don't have the Kozo book yet. Still trying to make up my mind if I am want to try such a difficult project.
Thanks,
Rich
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Post by Bill Holland on Apr 8, 2004 22:44:38 GMT -5
Ibrich, standard 1018 is just fine. I dont have have a nice mill, thres a lot of sawing, and drilling, and milling, Its just a nice convenience to have a laser zip around and do it in a few minutes.
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