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Post by grege on Jan 10, 2010 21:36:54 GMT -5
Yesterday was the big day! I received the O-rings earlier in the week and yesterday made the pistons and tried it out. I haven't made the cylinder cocks or the oil system yet so there is massive air leakage, but it works. Its a bit stiff- I may take a smidge off the pistons and then wait to give it time before deepening the O-ring groove in case they wear in more. I'd appreciate any wisdom from those who've been here before. Thanks.
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Post by phutcheson on Jan 11, 2010 1:28:18 GMT -5
grege,
Now that's quite a sight. Must have been a real thrill seeing it run even if it is air!
Did you follow Ed Hume's modification suggestion using a #115 O-ring with the appropriate dimensions?
If they bind a little now, when under steam they will bind a little more. Do you know how much compression percent there is using your O-ring and actual measurements ... that might tell you what to do if anything.
But think I would wait until more of it is done and broken in a bit.
Thanks for the update,
Pat H
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Post by grege on Jan 11, 2010 9:17:19 GMT -5
Thanks- yeah it was exciting ;D
When I first applied air nothing happened and I was turning at the wheels to start it and wondering what was wrong- then I realized I was blowing into the exhaust...
I did use the #115 size and following the chart in the New Shay book I turned the groove to midway in the optimal range.
I'll pull them out sometime here and verify the dimensions. I likely could have overlooked something in the thrill of the moment...
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Post by grege on Jan 11, 2010 10:49:35 GMT -5
One other thing- I got the orings in a bag of 50 from Mcmaster. I can only see needing 3 or 4 pairs so I'd be happy to share them out. Let me know first so I can keep track, but then the first 6 people who want 6-8 can send me an SASE so I can mail them to you.
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Post by GregMiller on Jan 11, 2010 15:39:54 GMT -5
That video on Flickr is Awesome!!!! I can just imagine how wide your grin must be!
Specifically what O-ring is it in our Loco design, and what is the McMaster part number?
Greg
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Post by pkastagehand on Jan 12, 2010 15:28:07 GMT -5
Yippee! Exciting.
I have a few pins, a few bushings and the return rods left to get me to that state so I'm not too far behind.
Paul
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Post by grege on Jan 12, 2010 16:52:24 GMT -5
The O-rings are McMaster part #9464k28.
Look forward to seeing yours run too Paul - and all the other builders that are in process...
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Post by grege on Jan 23, 2010 10:53:52 GMT -5
I have it running more smoothly now. I made a plug for the oil port and the cylinder cock bodies to reduce air leaks. Now it runs slower and quieter and I could hear a 'heee-hooo-heee-hooo' from the left cylinder. It seems there was about a .0015 eruption on the leading edge from parting off that I didn't remove. I took a light skim to even it out and that took care of the noise on that side. Now I could hear a little of the same on the right. I took a very light skim there too which mostly eliminated it. I think now I'll wait until steam testing to fiddle more.
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Post by GregMiller on Jan 23, 2010 16:21:59 GMT -5
GregE, Glad to hear that she is running better. The skim cuts that you made were to the piston? I'll need to know this within the next 7 to 9 months. Thanks, Greg
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Post by grege on Jan 24, 2010 8:24:28 GMT -5
Yes it was to the outer diameter of the piston. I haven't changed the O-ring groove. They're sliding easier now that the piston isn't rubbing on the cylinder.
I don't have lathe collets and was worried about concentricity with a homemade collet- so I did the cut in a mill collet with a lathe tool held in the vise. Held in the collet, it was still .0015 out from high to low side, but I just used that to touch up the offending area.
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Post by kwoodhands on Jun 28, 2010 17:41:00 GMT -5
Yesterday I finally got my A-3 running on air. Had tried to run it last week but ran into problems. At first the wheels only turned 3/4 of the way around before coming to a sudden stop. The major problem after tearing it down to just the main and side rods was the main rod dimension from center line of holes was correct on one rod and too long by .062 or so on the other main rod. I corrected this and put everything back together. Now it runs well considering the air leaks I have yet too address. I am working on the reverse arms and linkage right now. I am retired so I have time to work on the A-3, even so I am starting on the second year this week. Tender is built, does not leak even though the copper I used was left over from a flashing job I did 30 years ago.The copper was thinner than Kozo recommended but works.I used a .0625 galvanized steel for the bottom. When I get close to the boiler I'll have some questions I'm sure.
mike
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Post by grege on Jun 29, 2010 6:23:25 GMT -5
Congratulations! It took a while for me to want to take it all apart again to reassemble with sealant and finish parts to plug leaks, but it only gets better!
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